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Friday, October 29, 2010

Switzerland, Turkey, and the EU

When Lindsie and I arrived at the Lyon main train station about fifteen minutes before our train to Geneva left the platform. The Lyon station was absolutely packed. There were people everywhere. As we reached the station, we realized that the train that was to leave was a TGV train – we needed a reservation. It was difficult just to find out where the platform was from which our train was to depart, let alone get to a ticket office and buy a reservation on board the train that was to depart in less than 15 minutes. So, we hoped that we wouldn’t get caught and got on the train anyway. To avoid detection, we stayed in the back of the train near the baggage cart.

We weren’t alone. There was a young French lady, a middle-aged French lady, and two young Swiss gentlemen in the back of the train with us. During the trip, we learned that the young French lady didn’t have a ticket either, so she shared our concern about the “controlleur” coming back to check our reservations. Fortunately, no one came, but the cramped circumstances and awkwardness of the situation encouraged a dialogue between us.

We talked of many things, most of which was the future of the EU and the likelihood of Switzerland and Turkey acceding to the EU. The two Swiss gentlemen both felt like Switzerland would never join the EU. They felt that Switzerland was just fine on its own and that the Swiss economy was strong enough to withstand the pressures of the world economy. They felt like the government was behaving responsibly by subsidizing ranchers and farmers. These two gentlemen, who spoke English quite well, said they thought it would only be a matter of time before the EU government became centralized and federal. Whether or not that will actually happen is up for debate I suppose.

Regarding Turkey, our companions didn’t seem to have a strong opinion on the matter. I attribute that to their being Swiss. Switzerland has no vested interest in Turkey’s accession to the EU, so I was not surprised to see that they had no opinion. The French ladies that were with said they were not sufficiently informed about the issue to make a decision, but in principle, they did not oppose the idea. I would be interested to know what their views will be when Turkey is ever admitted to the EU, if it ever is.

The Portuguese View on Economic Crisis and Government

While Cody, Scott and I were in Porto, we stayed at the home of the Corte-Real family. After dinner, I had a short conversation with Mr. and Mrs. Corte-Real about the economic downturn. It turns out that Mr. Corte-Real works as a banker in the second-largest Portuguese city, Porto. So, I was naturally curious to get his take on the crisis and where he thought it would all be heading, especially since Portugal is one of the nations that is suffering the most in the wake of the economic downturn.

Mr. Corte-Real explained that there was simply no more money in Portugal to lend. He said credit was no longer available because much of the Portuguese funds were tied up in toxic assets in both the United States and in Europe. Because that money was gone, banks were concerned with remaining solvent, and as such, made the lending process very, very difficult to anyone. Thus, no one could get the funding needed for large purchases, which slowed the already struggling Portuguese economy to new levels and threw the government into new levels of extraordinary debt. Mr. Corte-Real said Portugal didn’t even make enough money in a single year just to pay off the interest on its governmental debt.

As to the future of the country and of their family, Mr. and Mrs. Corte-Real were obviously concerned. They were unhappy with the leadership that their government had provided, and they were somewhat resentful of the fact that most of the crisis had happened because of the problems in America’s market, although they understood that the world economy is very intertwined. They remained hopeful that things would change. For the good of Portugal and the Corte-Real family, I hope things change too.

The French View on Pensions

Much of the international news from Europe has come because of protests that have been raging throughout Paris and Lyon for the last few weeks. Why are the French protesting? Because the French government is attempting to increase the retirement age from 60 to 62 in order to save the social retirement pension scheme a significant amount of money. Simply, the French pension system of social security is unsustainable. With an aging population, the system will go bankrupt. The opinion polls show this. So, if the system is unsustainable, and if the French know it, then why are they so keen to protest by the hundreds of thousands against the French government?

A few news articles I have found suggest that the French are revolting because they perceive that the French government decided to make the changes to the pension system without consulting the trade unions. Others have said the French are protesting because they want to protect future generations from a troubled future. (Todd, 2010) The French have no reason to believe that the protests will not work either. One article I found says withdrawing and giving in to strikes and protests is almost standard practice in France. (Bills, 2010) In short, the French are used to working less, getting long vacations, and having the government step in to cater to the citizenry’s wants after retirement age. Any change or threat to that system is seen as grotesque, un-French, and reprobate.

The French Senate has approved the change in the law, and the French government is in the final stages of approval for the new pension laws. It will be most interesting to see which side of this battle winks first, whether it’s the government or the strikers. My money is on the strikers backing down first.

Works Cited

Bills, P. (2010, October 29). De Gaulle knew why France is impossible to reform. Retrieved October 29, 2010, from New Zealand Herald: Link here

Todd, T. (2010, October 29). Pension protestors hold firm despite lower turnout. Retrieved October 29, 2010, from France24: Link here

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Travel Part Six of Six - Public Places and Parks

In my observation, I am not of the opinion that Europeans value their parks and public spaces more than Americans. I mean, it is very certain that Europeans value the fact that their parks and public spaces exist, but I am not convinced that they are especially concerned with maintaining them clean and free of rubbish any more than the American population is. There are many destinations which are absolutely more valuable to the European population than others, but such natural locations usually are of some historical significance. Therefore, the government puts a price on admission and charges patrons for the right to visit.

As an example of a park/public space that was not very well maintained, there is a small grassy area alongside the Seine River. It’s about a kilometer in length and about twenty meters wide. The view of the river and the opposite shore is beautiful. On the whole, the area is very picturesque, but it smells awful. The park is widely used as a litter box for the dogs of Paris. I seriously had to cover my nose with my sleeve and control my breathing in passing. The smell was absolutely revolting. Occasionally I would run into dog poop on the roads as well, which I found to be revolting as well and irresponsible on the part of dog owners.

Now, contrast that with Quinta da Regaleira, a cultural heritage site near the Castle of the Moors in Sintra, Portugal. The park is a world heritage site, and as such entry comes at a price. Four euros, to be exact. The park is a value at that price, however. It’s very well kept and very clean. It’s also very amusing. It’s almost like a medieval amusement park. There are intricate tunnels underground for exploring and miniaturized turrets and castles to climb on all over the park. There are ponds and paths and deep wells to play in. It’s a place almost out of a fairy tale, and it was one of the places I made sure we visited when Cody, Scott, and I went to Portugal. It’s obvious that the Portuguese value such a place as the Quinta. There’s no dog poop anywhere.

So, I would suggest that the value that Europeans place on their public spaces and their parks varies with the individual, just like it does in America. Obviously the person who leaves his dog’s poop behind doesn’t value the quality of the public space very much. Similar examples can be found in America, and therefore I conclude that no significant difference exists. But, in absolute terms, Europeans do value that their public spaces exist and that they are of good quality, just as Americans do.

Travel Part Five of Six - Absolutism and Democracy

Versailles can only be described adequately in terms of over the top opulence. The size and grandeur of the palace at Versailles is on a level that I had never contemplated before. I could hardly believe how large and how ornate that palace was.

The idea that the palace was built using public funds is all but offensive to my modern American mind. In absolutist and feudal times, when the king owned everything, I suppose that such a palace wouldn’t be too far out of order. But still, the idea that the king could build such a palace for an absolutist king, no matter who that king is, is quite offensive to me. I struggle to justify the refined nature of the White House, let alone Versailles. Yikes.

From what I understand, Versailles came to be recognized as a symbol of an oppressive imperialistic regime bent on maintaining perpetual opulence at the expense of the French peasantry. I believe that the palace was built so far from Paris in order to limit the French population’s ability to march on the castle and attack the royal family that lived there. Although to Marie Antoinette, the French Queen who was taken prisoner when the French revolutionaries stormed the castle and later guillotined, the palace could have been built much farther away.

With that in mind, I have come to wonder many times why Versailles was allowed to continue to exist, even as a national museum. Perhaps it’s to allow the French and the rest of the world to understand what absolutism and an overbearing and oppressive central government can do to a nation. It can also serve as a reminder of what neglect to the population can do to a ruler, such as cause him to literally lose his head. Whatever the reason is, the Versailles palace is undeniable. Its sheer size and incredible opulence are reminders of a past that simply will not be forgotten. The palace is too large of a reminder to ignore, and I believe that no one in France easily will forget the lessons learned in the revolution.

Travel Part Four of Six - Art

While I was in Geneva I visited the local art museum, and while in Paris I visited two art museums, The Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay. I saw more art than I could possibly appreciate in a year in the space of about 6 hours, and I must say, I understand a little bit more about why I am not an art major. It’s clear that I’m not a big art fan. However, had I been surrounded by that art from very young age, perhaps I would appreciate it more.

I don’t know if I am supposed to interject my personal opinion in all of this, but I am going to. I tired really quickly of the art displayed in all of these museums because of all the nude art, especially in Orsay. Having European experience, I expected a lot of bare breasts and male genitalia. That doesn’t mean I appreciated it; on the whole I found it to be rather uncomfortable. I drew the line at offensive and obscene when I saw a painting of female genitalia displayed prominently in the Orsay. At that point, I was ready to leave. Some people say such art is artistic and that the human body is the most perfect piece of art on earth, and maybe it is. That doesn’t mean that I appreciate seeing it portrayed in the way that it is. I think such art undermines what I believe to be the sacred nature of the human body, and I would prefer to not have it be a part of my life. That’s just my opinion, though.

The great artists of history—Monet, Van Gogh, Da Vinci, etc.—are among the artists present in the Louvre and Orsay. I think France in particular takes great pride in being known as the global center of culture and refinement. The art scattered throughout a hundred different museums throughout the city of Paris only goes to reinforce those feelings of national and cultural pride. It’s easy to understand why the French feel this way too. France in general holds a comparative advantage in the production of luxury goods, and along with such a distinction comes a lot of pride. That pride is very apparent in the Louvre. That building is monstrous. It’s impossible to visit every part of that museum in a day.

Because of the presence of art not only in many local museums but also in government buildings and bridges, I believe that the French place huge importance in the role of history in their lives. Nearly all the bridges that cross the Seine have some sort of statue or monument nearby, and the bridge that crosses the Seine between the Place de la Concorde and the Assemblee Nationale is laden with art. At least to me, it begs the question, “Where did this come from? Why is it here?” And of course, when you learn about the art, you learn about the reason the bridge or building or whatever was built. It helps keep the French and Europeans in general cognizant of their past and the importance of art in daily life.

Travel Part Three of Six - A non-tourist area

While we were in Portugal, we had the opportunity to stay at the home of the Rocha family. The Rocha family does not live in a tourist area. They live in the Pinhal de Frades, near the suburban city of Amora, which is across the Tagus River from Lisbon. The street they live on is a simple one, albeit comparatively wealthy. Most housing districts in suburban Portugal are packed with highrise apartment buildings. Pinhal de Frades actually has some houses, and the Rocha family lives in one of these houses. By the Portuguese standard, the Rocha family is very well off. They have a home separate from another building with two levels, a very nice dining room, a full kitchen, a washing and drying machine, and a dish washer. All of these items seem very standard for American homes, but when most families live in small five room apartments in packed housing districts, the Rocha’s are very well off and live in a very well-to-do neighborhood.

The housing situation I observed there reinforced the urban population and transportation issues that Europe has to confront. The Pinhal is about a 30 minute walk from the nearest train station, but even so once the train comes, one is only 20 minutes from downtown Lisbon. The availability of public transport and the benefits that come from urban centralization outweigh the drawbacks of small living space. The Rochas and many Europeans have come to accept this. Even so, the Rocha family owns two cars and a greater measure of mobility – another symbol of their economic power. Portugal and many other European governments have been able to successfully devise a system that gives mobility to the masses and provides them with decent, albeit more cramped, housing.